Sunday, October 5, 2008

Paris, Baby!






PARIS

After the wine festival, I had to WORK for 4 days. What’s that about? I had a cold all week and was sort of miserable in general. The nurse kept telling me to go home and rest. But, you know me; I had things to do, so I kept trudging along. Tues, Sep 15 was Mexican Independence Day, so of course, I had people over. I made fresh tortillas by hand, Alison’s Guacamole Extraordinaire, homemade salsa, fajitas, vegetarian chili, and salads. Heather brought a piñata, and we used a broom stick to hold it up, and the handle from my Swiffer to break it. Oh, it was hilarious. True culture right there, people. But her 7 and 8 year old boys didn’t care that it was a Swiffer handle. They swung like Babe Ruth. Wed was supposed to be movie night, but I was sick and just stayed home and went to bed. Thursday we went out to dinner, and by Friday, I was down for the count. I called in sick and slept ALL day. Until it was time to leave for the airport, that is. What? You didn’t think I was going to waste my plane ticket, did you? My logic was that I would rest all day to get better for the weekend. It half way worked. I didn’t die, anyway.

So Juliet and I headed off for the airport. We took her car instead of a taxi so that she didn’t have to pay for parking on her street and because we thought it would be cheaper than a taxi. We THOUGHT. Well, since we can’t READ the signs, we evidently parked in the “Don’t-park-here-for-more-than-20-minutes-because-you-can’t-afford-it” lot. But whatever. We spent the weekend in Paris.

Our flight was delayed, of course, so we got in pretty late. We were lucky to get the last train into the city – they told us a taxi would be about 60 euro ($90US). We took the metro from there to our hostel. Now, I’ve never stayed in a hostel before. You hear about them when people like Tripp go backpacking across Europe, right? Stay in a youth hostel, it’s cheap. Well, there’s a reason that they’re cheap! J First, since it’s called a youth hostel, I didn’t know if I would be able to stay there. I am 57 years old, after all. But Juliet said it would be ok. We shared a room with 2 other people that we didn’t know. We had 2 sets of bunk beds and only one key. So when we got in at 1:30 am, we checked in at the bar. That’s the hostel “office” – it’s where you check in, rent sheets, have breakfast, and check internet. And meet people, of course. So we head up to our room, and we have to knock on the door and wake up the poor guy already there. They said they didn’t have another key, and we just had to knock till he got up and let us in. We felt awful, of course, but the guy didn’t seem to mind. He was from Newcastle, I think, in England. He was finishing up a week in Paris and was traveling on after that. When we got there we realized that we hadn’t thought of bringing a towel. We had to rent our sheets, which we expected, but had no way really to take a shower. The shower was down the hall anyway, and that was too much fuss. So we went to bed. The bathroom was down the other way, out on the balcony. I mean, there was a room, but it was still out on the balcony. So in the pictures, this place looks so cute – bright and colorful and people from all over the world who love to travel. But in reality, just be prepared!

Saturday morning we had a croissant in the bar, and then headed out to explore. We walked past all the things that make Paris famous – little cafes, fruit stands, bakeries, churches, parks – oh it was beautiful. We walked several blocks from our hostel to the Eiffel Tower. I took a bazillion pictures, of course, and it was impressive, but I don’t remember being blown away. I do remember thinking, huh, this is where Tom Cruise proposed to Katie Holmes. Seriously. How demented. But I digress. The lines were too long to go up, so we decided to wait till Monday to do that. We walked across the river to have a better view of the tower, and then back across to the south side and down the river to the Alexander Bridge and the Grand Palace. It’s called Grand for a reason! Actually, everything here should be called grand. The people, the fashion, the architecture. I love this place. I would live here if I could afford it. But Budapest does have better bridges, we decided. The Danube is better, the bridges are better, and getting around is faster. But Paris pretty much rocks on everything else. The Grand Palace is a huge glass building that was built for the Paris Exhibition in 1900. Today it is a national gallery and shows several important collections. They have an interactive website at http://www.grandpalais.fr/en/Homepage/p-617-Homepage.htm if you want to take a virtual tour.

The Grand Palais is on the corner of the Champs Elysees, so we thought we’d have some lunch and find one of the big red buses for a tour. I know it sounds terribly touristy, but the big red bus is a great deal to get you oriented to a place. Don’t knock it. We had lunch at a side street café. Choosing the food was the hardest part. EVERYTHING looked good! Then we walked up to the Arc de Triomphe and climbed the stairs to the top. From the top you can see all of Paris on a clear day. It was fairly clear on Saturday, but you could also see the pollution that a city of 2 million people has. Inside the arc there are historical and educational videos, books, and plaques on the way up.

After the Arc, we finally found the Red Bus. I wish we had had a pedometer. We must have walked a hundred miles on this trip! On the bus we went past the major landmarks, including the Louvre, and we got off at the Notre Dame cathedral. I remember being excited to go in, but once in, I was not overwhelmed like I thought I would be. There were smaller churches in Italy that were more impressive. And by impressive, I don’t mean by their architecture. Obviously, Notre Dame outranks most churches in the world on that front. What I mean is, they made more of an impression on me. I think it was because there were so many people – so many tourists – in this cathedral, that it didn’t seem like a cathedral, like a church, like a religious place. But they do have services here regularly. Maybe I need to come back then.

We had lunch at an Italian café on one of the little side streets across the river, finished up the red bus tour, walked to Hard Rock Café, and went back to the hostel to figure out how to shower. We asked the guy at the desk about the towel situation. He said we could rent them. YAY! So we rented our towels and went upstairs. The shower was like one of those spigots on the side of your house, except up higher. To turn on the water, you pressed a button and it stayed on for about 15 seconds. So you had to keep pressing the button. It’s a good way to conserve water, I suppose. But I just pretended like I was camping, and this would be great for camping. In fact, we would have knocked each other OVER to be able to use this shower when we were at Outward Bound! I remember thinking, "I wonder if Madonna is getting ready in a shower like this in her hotel. Nope. Probably not."

The English people had checked out of the room now, and there was someone else’s stuff in there, but we didn’t know who it was. Later we would find out that it belonged to an Australian lady – also not eligible to stay in a “youth” hostel – who was a banker and had been traveling in Egypt and was going to Thailand, I think. She never came home that night. We didn’t see here till the next afternoon. Seems she had met some locals and went out with them. The other guy staying in the room was from Mexico – a grad assistant finishing up law school. I was super happy to be able to speak Spanish, and we got along famously. He told us that his “jefa” – which can mean boss or mother – I’m not sure which he meant – was staying in another place, and that they were going to tour some military school. He had an Armani suit and was probably pretty well off. I thought it was interesting that he was staying in this place.

Finally, Saturday night we went to the Madonna concert – the whole reason we were there. Now, we had already had an ordeal trying to get these tickets. Our friend Jeremy had bought them and had them mailed to Budapest. They were lost in the mail, and he had to call them and get replacement tickets, which was no easy feat. The requirements for this were interesting. They had a tracking record – like UPS or FedEx – that said the tickets had made it to Budapest, but had not made it to Jeremy. But they wanted him to send them a letter and “swear on his honor” that he had not received them. So he did, and after more haggling, he finally got them. He sold his ticket to me because he wanted to save money – he owns a condo in Brazil that he is paying for – and a place here – and a place in Maine – must be nice. So he wants to save money. So I buy his ticket. And then he buys ANOTHER ticket to go see her in Vienna. HAHAHAHAHAHA! So much for saving. But ok, so we have our tickets. Except Juliet then lost hers. The week before we left, she realized that she couldn’t find hers. So she calls them to tell them that the tickets that were lost and then sent again – yeah, well, we lost another one. This time they wanted a police report. So she got one – with the help of some fancy internet moves – and emailed it to them. So, needless to say, when we were on the way to the concert – with only ONE ticket – we were sort of worried. We didn’t know whether they were going to have one for her or not. They said that there would be a replacement ticket, but honestly, who DOES that? But there was! There was actually a window called “replacement tickets” for morons like us who lose them. :)

The tickets said no cameras, so I didn’t take mine. But everybody and their DOG had a camera in that stadium! ARGH! I was a little frustrated with that. So, if you want to see the concert, you can see most of it on youtube. It was a great concert – Madonna is a showstopper! She’s in her 50s now, and still has tons of energy. I love the way she redid her old songs to keep them “new,” and I really like the new album. I thought it was funny how she tried to say a few things in French, and got them mixed up with Spanish a couple of times. She seemed frustrated that the audience didn’t get everything she said. One of my favorite parts was when she did “Like a Prayer.” I thought of you, Amanda – HOME! When she first released it in the 80s, it was like a slap in the face for the Catholic Church – remember the video with burning crosses, etc? Now when she does it, it’s all about religion. She has scripture and quotes on the screens in the background. Interesting how things go, isn’t it?

Sunday morning we had breakfast at the little café across the street from the hostel. As we were sitting there, I just kept thinking, it’s Sunday morning in Paris. Here we are at a café on a Sunday morning in Paris. How COOL! We also thought of our friends back in Budapest where it was raining and cold. It was sunny and 22 degrees (72F) in Paris.
We went up to the Sacre Coeur church – a white, onion domed basilica on the north side of town and walked around the little streets and markets outside of it. There were art galleries there, including one dedicated to Salvador Dali. I would have liked to go in, but it was 20 euro, so we said, nah. At this point, my camera died. So I had to wait till the afternoon to take more pictures. We went over a couple of blocks to the famous Moulin Rouge theatre. It was daytime, so we didn’t get all the lights, but it was still pretty neat. Juliet has those pictures on her camera. The Moulin Rouge is in a sort of seedier part of town. Reminds me a lot of Bourbon Street – they have the same kinds of stores and shows there. But the Moulin Rouge is more tasteful. Well, at least the pictures seem like it. It looks like a Vegas show with all the feathers and costumes. But it costs about 150 euro ($225US) to go! So, naturally, we didn’t go.

Sunday afternoon we went on a boat tour on the Sienne – we got that with our Red Bus tour. It was actually very nice. We went down past Notre Dame again and around the island that it sits on. The only problem was the lady behind us who talked entirely too loud and entirely too much. I am not sure why she was there. You can talk anywhere, woman. After the boat, we went back to the hostel and met the Australian lady. She told us about her adventures the night before. She was definitely an adventurer! Then we headed out for dinner at the Sorbonne. There was a nice little courtyard in front of the university where they had heat lamps – it was starting to get chilly at night. Then we walked back through the Latin Quarter – this is where all the action is, evidently! There were men breaking plates outside of Greek restaurants, cafes, ice cream shops, clubs, sports bars, tourist shops, all of it! Back on the north side of the river, we visited Notre Dame again – it was glowing in the lights. There was an educational movie showing inside, so we went in to watch. But it made us fall asleep, so we left half way through. HA! We walked back up to the Louvre and went in the courtyard where there is a smaller Arc de Triomphe that lines up with the real Arc de Triomphe, so you can see them all together. We never actually went in the Louvre on this trip – I think you just need more time to do that. I didn’t want to just rush in and look and say, ok, good. I’d like to actually take a day to really enjoy it. So I’ll have to go back. I’m going back in January, by the way. :)

We went over the pedestrian bridge back to the Eiffel Tower – we actually took the metro the last part of it because we were so tired from walking. And we got to see the tower all lit up! It was bathed in blue, and on the hour flashing white lights came on. It was especially nice because it wasn’t crowded with tourists. Not that I have anything against tourists – I am one myself, right?
On Monday morning, we finally got to climb the Eiffel Tower. Well, we didn’t so much climb as go up in an elevator. The visibility was not so good that day, but it was still a pretty amazing sight. Then we went back to the Champs Elysees and the shopping district. We stopped at the GAP for a little piece of home. It’s SO expensive there! But not near as expensive as Louis Vuitton, I suppose. We had lunch there and headed back to get our bags and go to the airport. The train to go to the airport was delayed for some reason, and there were literally hundreds – this time I am not exaggerating – of people on the platform. They kept making an announcement that people going to the airport were “invited” to take the bus upstairs. We didn’t know if that meant you HAD to, because this train was never coming, or if you just COULD to avoid all of these people. In the end, we decided to stay with the train because they don’t have to stop for traffic like buses do. We stood our ground and got a place on the train. We felt like people that you see on TV in the Japanese metros – where they push them on so that they all fit! But the important thing is that we got there. The Charles de Gaulle airport is not one of my favorites. It is sort of hard to negotiate, and the signage is not very helpful. We couldn’t figure out where to check in. There was a sign that said Malev Airways check in through here, but there was another sign that said you could only go that way if you had a boarding pass. So how are you supposed to get the boarding pass before you check in? But they let us through, and we finally found the check in. We’re home now. Safe and sound! I look forward to going back! I still have to see the Louvre and the Statue of Liberty. Who’s coming with me?

2 comments:

Suzanne said...

This is my overall comment about your Paris trip: i hate you. :)

Tami Canale said...

Tisk, tisk. Suzanne, don't hate me because I'm beautiful.

:)